Most everyone should already know how to remove the wheel at this point. Make sure your e-brake is on so that your wheel doesn't turn while you are trying to get the lug nuts off. Get your lug wrench, place the shorter end on the lug nut, and turn it counter-clockwise. If the wheels are new, or the last person to put them back on used an air impact drill, then they may be pretty tough to get off. What you want to do is make sure the car is steady, set up the lug wrench so that it is horizontal pointing left, brace yourself with one hand on the car, and kick downwards. This extra force should break the lug nuts loose.

Safety Note:

If you are kicking the lug wrench to loosen up the lug nuts, it is recommended that you have the car on jackstands, and that the car is fully secured. Make sure you have the car in gear so that it doesn't roll away. A pair of bricks wedged into the front tires also helps secure your vehicle.

Depending on how long it has been since the wheel was last off, if ever, this might be fairly tough to do. If the wheel doesn't pull right off, most likely it has been "bonded" with slight oxidation. This is where the mallet comes in handy. Give the tire a tap with the mallet on every side of the wheel, Wherever there is a spoke is a good guideline. This should loosen up the wheel a little bit.

If the wheel still doesn't come off, squat in front of the wheel, place one hand on the tire facing you, one hand behind the tire on the opposite end. Push and pull, then reverse your hand position, so that the hand that was behind the tire, is now in front and vice versa. Keep this up, all around the tire until it comes off.

Figure 4.1

Figure 4.2

Figure 4.3

Figure 4.4

Figure 4.5

While the wheel is off, and you have easy access, you might as well give everything a good cleaning, so the wheel doesn't get stuck again, etc. This is also a good time to clean the inside of your wheels, since it is tough to do so when they are on the vehicle.

What you want to do is use WD-40 or something else that will clean the rust, and grime off, and take as much of it off as you can. You can take off the wheel bearing cover and clean it if you would like, it is completely your choice.

Figure 5.2

Figure 5.3

Figure 5.4

Figure 5.5

Now it is time to get down and dirty. Before you start working on your brakes, be sure you have your e-brake down. You will need the two wrenches now, the 13mm and the 15mm. The larger 15mm will be to hold the bolt in place so that you can

Figure 6.1

Figure 6.2

Figure 6.3

Figure 6.4

Figure 6.5

Removing the caliper is just a matter of pulling it away from the rotor. Use both hands, place one at the top, and one at the bottom and pull. You might have to shimmy it off since the piston should be compressed to the pads. It should eventually come right off. At this time you can use brake parts cleaner to clean your calipers if you would like but it is not necessary. Once the caliper is removed, just pull the pads out.

Figure 7.1

Figure 7.2

This is actually a lot less daunting then it looks at first, especially if you haven't done it before. Before you start though, again, make sure your e-brake is disengaged. I recommend the kits that you can rent at Autozone, best of all, they are free, you just place a $35 deposit with them, and when you return it, you get your money back. The part number for the unit is #OEM 27111.

To put the tool together, place the flat panel with a hole in the middle over the end of the tool. You then need to find the piece that fits piston, if you have an MKIV VW, most likely the unit you use is the one in the top middle, as shown in the picture. You then have to place the tool within the caliper. Turn the tool so it is small enough to place within the caliper, than turn clockwise to expand the tool and compress the piston. The sheathing for the piston should be flush with the piston at all times. Compress the piston until it is reset or you have enough room to fit the new pads.

Note:

The technique of using a clamp, and a block of wood to reset the piston will not work because the piston needs to be turned while compressing it. The kit makes it so much easier that there is no reason not to get it, especially since it is free.

Figure 8.1

Figure 8.2

You are near done, all you have to do now is place the caliper back, it should be a lot easier to place it back then take it off because the piston has been reset. Match the bolts and holes up, and replace the screws, then tighten up and secure the caliper.